Three Austrian Gruner Veltliners

   

The latest update on the Hahndorf Hill ‘GRU’ Gruner Veltliner 2011 is that it is being stabilised in tank and will be ready for botting towards the end of July. This is right on target for the planned October release of this, our second GRU vintage. Already pre-orders are being taken – you can confirm your six-bottle order by phoning the cellar door during office hours on 08 8388 7512, or email me at Larry@hahndorfhillwinery.com.au

With this exciting new release in mind, Marc and I decided to make tonight International Gruner Night – and to celebrate, three Austrian versions were cracked open for our pleasure.  All three wines are available at East End Cellars, 22-26 Vardon Ave, Adelaide.

Here are our respective tasting notes:   

 

Weingut Knoll, Loibner Gruner Veltliner, Federspiel 2008

 

Weingut Knoll, Loibner Gruner Veltliner, Federspiel 2008 – 11.5 % alcohol

Larry: Nose bursting with white pepper, candied orange peel and tobacco. Fresh and vibrant in the mouth with wonderful mid-palate texture and a long peppery, citrus tail.

Marc: If you kept one eye closed you might think this wine label depicts a chap on a Mardi Gras float trying to channel Botticelli’s Venus on her clam shell … except that it’s actually a portrait of St. Urban, the patron saint of vignerons. And if truth be told, there’s nothing flamboyant about this wine – it’s sleek and understated yet is more substantial than its alcohol level suggests. It hails from a highly reputable family winery based in the delightful village of Unterloiben alongside the Danube in the Wachau (aaah, I remember those impossibly laden apricot trees basking in the summer sun there). Blue-ribbon Gruner at its best. 

Mac Forbes Gruner Veltliner 2009

 

Mac Forbes Gruner Veltliner 2009 – 12% alcohol

Larry: Citrus and fresh melon on the nose, with a tumble of citrus and spice on a well-rounded, yet fresh and zesty palate. Some texture on the back palate.

Marc:  The highly talented Mac Forbes is one of the young guns of the Victorian wine industry and the grapes for this Gruner come from the Carnuntum region in Austria where he’s worked as a consultant flying winemaker. It’s crisp and minerally with lychees and pears reverberating and everything in terrific balance. Hip label too. This coming spring Mac will be planting Gruner in his own vineyard in the Strathbogies Ranges … bet he can’t wait. 

 

Hesketh Perfect Stranger Krems Gruner Veltliner 2009 – 13% alcohol

Larry: Orange peel, caramelised parsnip, radish and herbs on nose through to palate, with lively, fresh acidity.

Marc: This wine is a joint venture between the Australian Hesketh family and Austrian wine legend Bert Salomon, and I absolutely love its label. It captivated me as I sipped the wine. It features a whimsical painting by Georgina Hart and shows a man and a woman connecting over a bottle of what I choose to interpret as being a Gruner. But will they make out? And are they really strangers to each other? These conundrums aside, the wine is as lovely as the painting – crisp but layered and disarmingly seductive.

Remember, every night can be International Gruner Night – all you need is a good bottle. Cheers!